Suspension problems are one of the most commonly hidden faults in used cars. A dodgy dealer can mask worn shocks, broken springs, and damaged bushes long enough to complete a sale. Here's what to do if your car's suspension fails after purchase.
Common Suspension Problems
Worn Shock Absorbers (Dampers)
Shocks control how the car handles bumps. When they wear out, the ride becomes bouncy and handling suffers.
Symptoms include excessive bouncing after bumps, nose diving when braking, the rear squatting when accelerating, poor handling on corners, uneven tyre wear, and knocking sounds from the wheel area.
Broken or Sagging Springs
Springs support the car's weight. When they break or sag, the car sits unevenly.
Signs include the car sitting lower on one corner, a visible gap difference between the tyre and arch, clunking over bumps, harsh ride quality, and spring coils being visible through the wheel arch.
Worn Bushes
Bushes are rubber components that cushion suspension joints. They wear out and cause play in the suspension.
Symptoms include knocking or clunking on bumps, steering that feels vague, the car wandering on the road, creaking sounds when turning, and vibration through the steering wheel.
Damaged Drop Links
Drop links connect the anti-roll bar to the suspension. They're relatively cheap but cause annoying symptoms.
Signs include rattling over bumps, a knocking sound from the front wheels, and poor handling on corners.
Ball Joint Failure
Ball joints allow the suspension to move while keeping the wheel attached. Failure can be dangerous.
Warning signs include clunking when going over bumps, steering wheel vibration, uneven tyre wear, wandering steering, and in severe cases the wheel can actually detach – making this a genuinely dangerous failure.
Anti-Roll Bar Problems
The anti-roll bar reduces body roll in corners. Damage affects handling significantly.
Symptoms include excessive body roll, poor cornering, knocking sounds, and the car feeling unstable through direction changes.
Why Suspension Faults Are Often Hidden
Dealers hide suspension problems because:
They're Common on Older Cars
UK roads are harsh on suspension. Most cars over 5 years old have some wear.
They're Expensive to Fix Properly
A full suspension refresh can cost £1,000-£3,000 depending on the car.
They're Easy to Mask Temporarily
New tyres hide alignment issues caused by worn components. A quick lube stops squeaks temporarily. And worn shocks might not be obvious on a short test drive – symptoms often only become apparent at motorway speeds or on rough roads.
MOT Doesn't Catch Everything
The MOT checks for dangerous suspension faults, but worn (not failed) components often pass.
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Is Suspension Wear a Fault?
When It IS a Fault
Components that fail MOT: If your car fails its next MOT on suspension items, those faults existed when you bought it – MOT failures don't develop overnight.
Premature wear: Shock absorbers typically last 50,000-100,000 miles. Springs last longer. Premature failure is a defect.
Safety-related failures: Broken springs, failed ball joints, and severely worn shocks are safety issues – definitely faults.
Undisclosed known issues: If the dealer knew about suspension problems and didn't tell you, the car wasn't "as described".
Problems present from day one: If the car knocked, bounced, or handled poorly from the moment you drove it away, the fault was present at sale.
When It Might NOT Be a Fault
High-mileage expected wear: Shocks at 120,000 miles being worn isn't unexpected.
Disclosed issues: If you were told "it needs shocks" and paid less accordingly.
Damage you caused: Hitting a pothole hard enough to break a spring after purchase.
Your Legal Rights
Consumer Rights Act 2015
A car with significant suspension problems isn't of satisfactory quality. Within the first 30 days, you can reject for a full refund for any fault. After 30 days, the dealer must attempt a repair or replacement. If that repair fails, you can reject for a refund.
The Safety Angle
Suspension faults are often safety issues. A car that's unsafe to drive is clearly not of satisfactory quality or fit for purpose. If your suspension is so bad the car is dangerous, stop driving immediately and document why by videoing the problem – this significantly strengthens your rejection case.
MOT Failure Evidence
An MOT failure on suspension provides strong evidence. It proves the fault exists, proves the car isn't roadworthy, and the failure was almost certainly present at sale since suspension doesn't deteriorate overnight.
Common Dealer Excuses
"That's normal for a car this age"
Your response:
"The Consumer Rights Act requires goods to be of satisfactory quality regardless of age. A car with [broken springs/failed shocks/dangerous ball joints] isn't satisfactory."
"It passed its MOT"
Your response:
"MOT is a minimum safety standard, not a guarantee of quality. The car still needs to be of satisfactory quality under consumer law."
"You must have hit a pothole"
Your response:
"I've only driven [X] miles since purchase. This level of wear doesn't develop in [X] weeks. The fault was present at sale."
"Suspension is a wear item"
Your response:
"Wear items still have expected lifespans. [Component] failing at [mileage] is premature. And I'm entitled to a car that's safe and driveable."
Repair Costs
Understanding costs helps you know what's at stake:
| Component (per corner) | Parts | Labour | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shock absorber | £50-£200 | £50-£100 | £100-£300 |
| Coil spring | £40-£150 | £50-£100 | £90-£250 |
| Wishbone/control arm | £80-£300 | £80-£150 | £160-£450 |
| Ball joint | £30-£100 | £50-£100 | £80-£200 |
| Drop link | £20-£50 | £30-£60 | £50-£110 |
| Bush set | £50-£150 | £100-£200 | £150-£350 |
For multiple corners or components, costs add up fast. A full front suspension rebuild can easily exceed £1,000.
Evidence You'll Need
Document the Symptoms
Take video of any knocking or bouncing, photographs of uneven ride height, photos of broken springs if visible, and keep a record of when problems started. See our guide on gathering evidence for what else to collect.
Get Professional Evidence
Gather your MOT failure sheet (if applicable), an independent inspection report, a written quote for repairs, and ideally a statement that the wear is premature or the fault existed before purchase.
Purchase Records
Collect your invoice showing mileage at sale, any inspection report from the dealer, screenshots of the advert, and all messages or emails from the dealer. Keep everything organised.
Steps to Take
Step 1: Assess Safety
If you suspect dangerous suspension failure (ball joint, severe shock failure, broken spring), don't drive the car. Get it recovered to a garage and document everything.
Step 2: Get an Inspection
Take it to an independent garage (not the dealer). Ask for a full suspension check, a written report of all faults found, their opinion on whether the wear is premature for the car's age and mileage, and an estimate of how long the faults have existed.
Step 3: Write to the Dealer
Send a formal letter listing all suspension faults found, stating when symptoms appeared, including the inspection report, setting out your remedy (rejection or repair), and giving a deadline of 14 days.
Step 4: Reject or Accept Repair
Within 30 days: You can reject outright. Don't let them pressure you into repair.
After 30 days: You must allow one repair attempt. But if the repair fails or they refuse, you can reject.
Step 5: Escalate If Needed
If the dealer refuses, contact the finance company if you used HP or PCP (they're jointly liable), report to Trading Standards, or take the matter to Small Claims Court for claims up to £10,000.
Recommended reading
Special Cases
Air Suspension
Cars with air suspension (common on premium vehicles) have particularly expensive failures. Air struts cost £500-£1,500 each, compressors £300-£800, and air lines £100-£300. These are definitely faults if they fail shortly after purchase.
Adaptive/Electronic Suspension
Cars with electronic damping have more expensive components. Failure of the electronic systems is a clear defect.
Performance Cars
Sports cars and hot hatches often have stiffer suspension that wears faster, but premature failure is still a fault.
The Bottom Line
Suspension faults are safety issues. A car that bounces, knocks, handles poorly, or sits unevenly isn't of satisfactory quality.
Dealers often try to pass off suspension problems as "normal wear" – don't accept this. If the fault was present when you bought the car, or developed prematurely, you have rights.
The costs of suspension repairs make it well worth fighting for your rights rather than paying out of pocket.
Suspension problems on your recently purchased car? Check if you qualify for a rejection or repair at the dealer's expense.
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