Key takeaways
- Silence is not a refusal; it is the start of the escalation ladder
- One chase letter with a seven-day deadline, then name the next step and take it
- On finance, the lender is the supplier and has eight weeks to answer
- The letter before action is what the court expects to see
You've sent the rejection letter. You've cited the Consumer Rights Act. You've been reasonable and professional. And the dealer? Complete silence. Or worse, a dismissive response that doesn't address your rights.
This is frustrating, but it's not the end of the road. Silence is not a refusal, and it is not the end of your rights: it is the first rung of a ladder with dates on it.
Days 1–14
The rejection letter
- Sent by email and recorded post
- A 14-day deadline inside it
Days 15–21
The chase letter
- Refers to the first letter by date
- Seven days, then the next step named
Days 22–42
The lender, if there is one
- On HP or PCP the lender is the supplier
- Eight weeks for their final answer
Days 43–56
The letter before action
- What you claim, and the 14 days
- The court expects to see this first
Day 57 on
The claim, or the Ombudsman
- Money Claim Online under £10,000
- Financial Ombudsman if there is finance
The days are a guide. If the dealer has said in writing that they refuse, you can go straight from the chase letter to the letter before action.
Why a rejection letter gets no reply
Some dealers do not know the law and assume "no refunds on used cars" is the rule. Some are small businesses where the letter has landed on the wrong desk. Some are waiting to see whether you follow it up, because a letter with no follow-up costs them nothing. And a few are hoping the 30 days run out while nothing happens. The dates in the ladder above are what stop the last two working: a deadline you keep is a deadline they have to answer.
One thing that silence cannot do is take your rights away. The 30-day clock is about when you tell the dealer you are rejecting, not when they reply, so a letter sent on day 20 is in time whatever happens afterwards.
Immediate steps when ignored
1. Send a chase letter
One more chance, with a short, formal deadline. The chase letter refers to your rejection letter by date, states that there has been no substantive response, asks for written confirmation within seven days that the rejection is accepted and how the refund will be made, and names the next step if there is none: the finance company, Trading Standards, or a letter before action. Send it by email and recorded delivery, and keep both receipts.
The free check works out which window you are in, and the full platform has the chase letter and the letter before action ready for the day each is due, with the reminders set so the dates are not missed.
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- Enter your reg
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2. Document the silence
Keep records of the date of your original rejection letter, proof of delivery or receipt, every attempt to contact them, their non-response, and dates and times of any phone calls. This evidence of unreasonable behaviour strengthens your case significantly if you need to escalate.
3. Stop using the car
If possible, stop driving the vehicle. Continued use after rejection can complicate your claim – though it doesn't eliminate your rights.
Your escalation options
If you used finance (PCP, HP or a loan)
This is your strongest card. With PCP or HP, the finance company legally supplied the car and is directly responsible for its quality under the Consumer Rights Act. With a dealer-arranged loan, Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act makes the lender liable for the dealer's breaches instead.
Write to the finance company stating that you've rejected the car under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, explaining the dealer isn't responding, requesting they intervene and process your rejection, and including copies of all correspondence with the dealer. Finance companies have commercial leverage over dealers. They also don't want Financial Ombudsman complaints, so they often resolve things quickly.
If the finance company is unhelpful, make a formal complaint and escalate to the Financial Ombudsman Service. The Ombudsman can order refunds, compensation, and interest.
Trading Standards
Report the dealer to Trading Standards through Citizens Advice Consumer Service (0808 223 1133).
Trading Standards can investigate the business, take enforcement action for breaches, provide evidence for your court case, and sometimes mediate informally. However, they can't force a refund directly, represent you in court, or get your money back immediately. Trading Standards is more about putting pressure on and creating a paper trail than getting direct resolution.
Alternative dispute resolution (ADR)
Some dealers are members of ADR schemes such as the Motor Ombudsman or Motor Codes. Check if the dealer is a member – if so, you can raise a dispute through the scheme. These can be quicker and cheaper than court, though outcomes vary.
Small claims court
If other routes fail, the County Court Small Claims track is designed for exactly this situation.
The small claims track requires no solicitor, has low fees (£35–£455 depending on claim value), follows a relatively straightforward process, and produces a legally binding judgment. The process starts with sending a Letter Before Action giving 14 days to respond, then issuing a claim online at Money Claims Online. The dealer has 14 days to respond, and if the claim is defended, there's a hearing where the judge decides. Many dealers settle once they receive court papers – the prospect of a CCJ (County Court Judgment) focuses minds.
Drafting a letter before action
Before court, you must send a formal Letter Before Action. This should include a summary of the dispute, the specific fault or faults, your attempts to resolve the matter, the dealer's failure to respond, what you're claiming (the refund amount plus any consequential losses), a 14-day deadline to respond or settle, and a clear statement that you'll issue proceedings if not resolved. This letter is important – courts expect to see you've tried to resolve matters before issuing a claim.
Not sure which window you are in? Put in your reg and find out, free.
What if they respond but refuse?
"The car isn't faulty"
Request an independent inspection. If they still refuse after inspection proves the fault, their position becomes untenable.
"It's wear and tear"
If the car is relatively new or the fault is clearly not wear-related, this is a weak argument. Document why their position is wrong.
"We'll repair it"
Within 30 days, you have the right to reject without accepting a repair. After 30 days, you must give them one opportunity to repair before rejection.
"No refunds on used cars"
This is simply wrong. The Consumer Rights Act 2015 applies to all goods. Cite the specific sections (9, 10, 11, 19-24).
"You should have checked before buying"
The duty is on them to sell satisfactory goods, not on you to be an expert. This is legally irrelevant.
Practical tips for escalation
Stay calm and professional
Angry emails feel satisfying but undermine your position. Be firm, factual, and reference the law.
Keep everything in writing
Phone calls are fine for chasing, but always follow up in writing. "Following our call today, I'm writing to confirm..."
Set clear deadlines
Open-ended requests get ignored. "Please respond within 7 days" creates urgency.
Copy in relevant parties
If you've involved the finance company, copy them on dealer correspondence. This adds pressure.
Don't threaten what you won't do
If you say you'll go to court, be prepared to do it. Empty threats damage credibility.
When dealers finally engage
Once they realise you're serious, dealers often suddenly become responsive. When this happens:
Get everything in writing
Verbal agreements mean nothing. Any settlement must be documented.
Don't settle for less than you're owed
If they offer a partial refund to "make it go away," consider whether it's fair. You're entitled to a full purchase price refund (or adjusted for use after 6 months), any reasonable consequential losses, and interest on the amount.
Consider professional help
If the amounts are significant, legal advice can be worthwhile. Many solicitors offer free initial consultations.
They accept but won't collect
Sometimes a dealer will accept your rejection but then stall on actually collecting the car and processing your refund. If this happens, see our guide on dealer accepted rejection but won't collect – you have clear rights to force the issue and claim your mounting costs.
The bottom line
Dealer silence isn't the end – it's just the beginning of escalation. You have multiple powerful options including finance company liability, Trading Standards reports, ADR schemes like the Motor Ombudsman, and the Small Claims Court. Most disputes resolve once the dealer realises you understand your rights and are prepared to enforce them. The key is persistence, professionalism, and following through on your escalation path.
Frequently asked questions
Give it 14 days from the date they received it, then send one chase letter: refer to the first letter by date, give seven days, and say what happens next if there is no reply. Send it by email and recorded post so there is proof of both. If the car is on HP or PCP, write to the finance company at the same time; they are the legal supplier and cannot ignore you for more than eight weeks. If there is no finance, the next letter after the chase is the letter before action.
There is no 14-day right to reject a faulty car; that figure comes from distance-selling cancellation, which only applies when you bought online or by phone without visiting the dealer. The right that matters is the 30-day short-term right to reject under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, and the dealer does not get to accept or decline it. You exercise it by telling them in writing; their refusal is a breach you then enforce through the lender, the Ombudsman or the court.
Get one done yourself. A diagnostic read-out costs £50 to £100 at any independent garage and an independent inspection £100 to £250, and either is evidence you can rely on; the dealer's cooperation is not needed. Inside the first six months the law presumes the fault was there at the sale, so the report only has to confirm the fault exists. Keep the invoice: it is a cost you can claim back.
Yes. Once a rejection is accepted the dealer has to collect the car at their own cost and refund you within 14 days; you do not have to deliver it, store it indefinitely or keep insuring it at your expense. Write giving a date, say the car is available for collection, and note that storage and insurance costs after that date will be claimed. If they still do not collect, the claim for the refund plus those costs goes to the lender or the court.
As little as you can. Once you have rejected the car, continuing to use it can be argued as accepting it, and every mile is a mile the dealer may try to deduct for. If you have no other transport, keep driving to a minimum, keep a note of the mileage on the day you rejected, and say in your chase letter that any use since then is out of necessity and does not withdraw the rejection.
Most disputes end before court. Allow 14 days for the first letter, seven for the chase, and eight weeks for a lender's final response if there is finance; that puts a lender decision around ten to twelve weeks from the first letter. Without finance, the letter before action goes out at around six to eight weeks and a small claim takes three to six months after issue. Dealers often settle when the court papers arrive.
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